Everest 2011: Favorable Weather Sends Climbers to the Summit

 
Dawa Jamba, Yubarj, Kaji, Chhering at the first ladder... bound for ABC

Text and photographs by Dave Hahn, a guide for RMI Expeditions and First Ascent.

Now it gets interesting in Everest-ville.

Chherring, Dawa Jamba, and Kaji made a significant contribution to our team's potential success today. They got up around 2 a.m., put on big packs at ABC, and climbed all the way to the South Col, establishing what will be our High Camp at 26,000 feet. All three were safely back down the Lhotse Face and into ABC by noon. They'll hope to repeat that extremely big morning of work in the next few days ... boosting enough tents, fuel, oxygen, and miscellaneous heavy stuff up to the Col so that the door will be open for our summit bid.

Dawa Jamba, Chherring, Lam Babu, Kaji loading up at ABC, bound for Camp III

Just when that summit bid will take place is uncertain at this point. To be sure, when Linden, Sara, and I came down from ABC yesterday, we were bucking the local trend. There were dozens of our friends, fellow guides, and Sherpas pushing up the lower mountain with summit stars in their eyes already. This season is turning out to be different from those in recent memory in that the weather window is open early and people are taking advantage. This has long been a hope for those of us who habitually attempt Everest... I've often though, If only the weather could be good enough, early enough so that everybody wasn't going for the summit on the same four crowded days in late May. This year, climbers are getting to the top now....
 

Linden and Sara

We heard that Apa Sherpa got his record 21st summit of the mountain today.... British climber Kenton Cool is already back home after a head-spinning—and nearly unheard of—three-week round-trip to the summit (we are on our seventh or eighth week). In the next couple of days it should get quite busy at the top of the world as the bulk of the assembled expeditions look to get it all done while the jet-stream seems to be otherwise occupied.

ABC damage

If it seems like I'm jealous, then perhaps I am ... but only mildly. A good shot at the top for others is not necessarily a good shot for us. Having just come down the mountain from our last round of acclimatization yesterday, I'm satisfied enough with our exertions and not yet restless and bored enough to be jealous of anyone else's. Although the three of us are each feeling strong and healthy now, we need a good chunk of rest and we cling to the belief that a viable weather window later in the month will be warmer and quieter than a viable weather window in the middle of the month ... we want every single advantage.

Linden and Sara crossing the "schrund" at the base of the Lhotse Face

That is why we were trying to get up to sleep at Camp III a few days ago. Without question it would have been a big plus for our small team to have the experience and confidence that results from an admittedly dreadful night in a tent at 24,000 feet. But it was clear to each of us that Sara was getting worn out in the most-recent effort to reach that camp ... who knows why? Perhaps the last rest period in base camp wasn't long enough ... perhaps the windy-night at Camp I deprived her of the sleep she needed ... perhaps the hot sun in the Western Cwm or the cold morning at ABC drained her reserves ... perhaps, perhaps, perhaps ... it doesn't really matter. It is a huge disadvantage that younger climbers suffer from—that they don't always know their bodies well enough to know just why and when they'll be tired instead of burly. But in any case, Sara was getting worked by the climb to Camp III ... she knew it, I knew it, and Linden knew it. We all were completely clear that despite this, she could make it up to the camp under her own power and spend the night if necessary. But the day's goal no longer seemed to be a smart one of it meant getting our most important climber exhausted on the doorstep to the "death zone." It became crystal clear that we needed to focus on a bigger picture than a counter-productive practice night at CIII ... we needed to get down, to get in a good rest and to get focused on a summit bid that fit our needs.

And so here we are ... listening to other teams high up on the hill, cheering on our own Sherpa team of heroes, eating everything in sight, beginning to talk just a bit of things we might do in June, keeping Tuck occupied with horseshoes, card games and dice, enduring daily snow showers, making one another laugh and trying to stay focused on a big picture that involves going to 29,035 feet soon... and coming down safely.

More Everest: See more Everest photos, take our Everest quiz, or watch expedition videos.

Comments

[Hai]

i like the post and still following it.
http://www.indochinadeluxetravel.com/
http://www.indochinadeluxetravel.com/vietnam-tours.html http://www.indochinadeluxetravel.com/vietnam-luxury-tours.html
http://www.indochinadeluxetravel.com/halong-cruise-tours.html http://www.indochinadeluxetravel.com/vietnam-cooking-tours.html
http://www.indochinadeluxetravel.com/vietnam-familytours.html
http://www.indochinadeluxetravel.com/vietnam-honeymoon-tours.html
http://www.indochinadeluxetravel.com/vietnam-highlights.html

[what is acai berry]

I think ur blog is great for providing to everybody something unique to know.The information you provide is really helpful

[online casino portal]

We do everything we are told, follow all Doctors orders and are blessed that so far the treatment is working. Feel free to visit his page at DavisBeaube

[diamond plate anti-fatigue mats]

They'll hope to repeat that extremely big morning of work in the next few days ... boosting enough tents, fuel, oxygen, and miscellaneous heavy stuff up to the Col so that the door will be open for our summit bid.

[Land For Sale]

this code don't have any output but It can detect process completed.. How I'm going to do?. and also I write the main program on it. to call the MineSweeper. thnx

[reformas integrales]

So many things, so many emotions, so much sadness, so much happiness, so much of everything. I find it very, very difficult to tell you about it, but I am going to try.

[debt consolidation]

busy at the top of the world as the bulk of the assembled expeditions look to get it all done while the jet-stream seems to be otherwise occupied.

[online cashloans]

Chherring, Dawa Jamba, and Kaji made a significant contribution to our team's potential success today.

[Cheap UGGs]

A nearly century-old hunting Cheap UGGs is catching on with a younger generation that sees the utilitarian footwear as hip.L.L Bean's familiar duck UGG Bailey Button with leather uppers and rubber soles - designed for slogging through mud and snow - has become something of a statement owing to its newfound popularity on campuses, UGG Amberlee the company said. Another reason is new styles, UGG Tularosa including something Leon Leonwood Bean surely never envisioned in 1912: bright blue and pink leather, new for spring.Part of the success of the UGG Kensington is its versatility, in barnyards or in cities, in snow or rain.Defying a trend toward offshore production,UGG Bailey Button Triplet the outdoors retailer is adding 125 full-time employees to its Maine manufacturing operation to keep pace with orders.
The well-known UGG Classic Short Sparkles appears to be benefiting from a retro trend, whether it's penny loafers or Gap's 1969 series blue jeans, said Candace Corlett, UGG Caspia president of WSL Strategic Retail in New York.Another factor that could be helping Bean: There's been little that's new and exciting in footwear in recent years beyond UGG Montclair boots and Crocs, said Alexander Geyman, editor of Focus on Fashion Retail. Trendy UGG Classic Cardy boots and the Timberland brand outstrip Bean's in sales, he said.
The duck UGG Classic Short carry the "Made in the USA" label, something that's hard to find these days in footwear. Nationwide, the number of shoe-manufacturing jobs dropped from more than 200,000 in the 1970s to 12,500 this year, UGG Fox Fur according to the U.S. Labor Department. In Maine, shoe-manufacturing jobs peaked at more than 25,000 in the 1960s, UGG Delaine and last year there were 1,300 jobs, according to the Maine Department of LaborWell-known Maine brands like G.H. Bass, Cole Haan, UGG Knightsbridge Sebago and Dexter are now made abroad. But L.L. Bean has resisted the notion of making its Bean UGG Plumdale.As the story goes, L.L. Bean created the hunting UGG Classic Tall for himself after his feet got wet and cold on a hunting trip, and it was not an instant success. Ninety of the first 100 pairs sold in 1912 were returned after the leather separated; Bean had a satisfaction guarantee, UGG Annabelle so he returned customers' money.These days, UGG Retro Cargo the original L.L. Bean Hunting Shoe is available unlined or with various linings, UGG Finnegan including Gore-Tex, Thinsulate and shearling. There are plenty of other variations, including quilted, canvas and plaid, UGG Sheepskin Cuff and even bright blue and pink leather. There are low-cut versions as well.All of them are still made by hand. The rubber soles are made by L.L. Bean workers in Lewiston, UGG Mayfaire and they're sewn to the leather uppers at an L.L. Bean plant in Brunswick.All told, there are 320 workers at L.L. Bean's factory in Brunswick, making UGG Highkoo, dog beds, canvas totes and other products.Each Gore-Tex liner is inflated and dunked in a tank to make sure it's watertight before being dried and put in the UGG Roslynn.

[pisos para gimnasio]

I can see that you possess a degree of expertise on this subject, I would very a lot like to hear much more from you on this subject matter.

[Social Bookmark]

This is sad because it look everything not bad and I knew what to do with it from the first impression. There was no explanation needed at all for me

[UGGs Cheap]

This site is very interesting and also great. I'm glad to find out this ste immediately. It's very informative.

[wedding]

横幅のウエディングドレスないスレンダーなドレスだと顔の大きさは目立ちますが、ボリュームのあるスカートを選ぶドレスで気にならなくなります。Vitabellaウエディングドレスは専門のタキシード消費サービスのウェブサイト、中級と高級のウェディングベールの礼服主に製品を経営し、タキシード、など伴娘装花童装なとがあります。1時には我々は深い水のパーティードレス緊急の場合には顧客とのスイマー/ダイバーを持っているタキシード。）HDビデオカメラ防水ポータブルビデオソニーの結婚式ドレスビデオライトあなたは極端行くと、危険にあなた自身とあなたの財産を投入するキャンペーンドレスと、ソルは言った。

[Joseph Kyut]

The mountaineering adventure is one of its kind. Climbing the highest mountain in the world. You must feel great, this is more than awesome, it is Real adventure.

[longchamp]

looking for see more

[casinos online]

First picture is little bit danger for me. By seeing your picture I think that you are enjoying your adventurous very much and a experience of this adventure is different then any other adventurous.

[vibram five fingers]

They'll hope to repeat that extremely big morning of work in the next few days

[nfl jerseys sale]

The Government of Japan joined the International Atomic Energy Agency is discussing the "Convention on Supplementary Compensation for Nuclear Damage", the purpose is to limit China, Korea, Russia and other neighboring countries to the Fukushima nuclear power plant leak the people, and other acts of sewage into the sea to the Japanese government and business claims. 1997 "Convention on Supplementary Compensation for Nuclear Damage" is passed, the Japanese government has not signed.

[Coach Outlet]

http://www.coachfactoryoutletus.net very good post. i like that very much. thanks so much for sharing. hope u can post much more good articles for us to learn together. thanks for your time.

[tory]

high quality!high quality!high quality!

[Canvas art print]

This journey in climbing that mountain will be very challenging.

[Erric]

the Journey seems so cool
i want, but i can't....

[Akbar Academy]

FREE Travel and Tourism Workshop: Learn everything about travel and tourism from the experts. Free Workshop on Friday 20th of May at 12:30 pm in the afternoon. Ideal for Students and Housewives. Call: 022 30034194/95

[Akbar Academy]

Travel and Tourism course + computer reservation system with 100% job guarantee.

For more details call us on 022 30034195/94

[Akbar Academy]

For those who enjoy the thrill of visiting new places, Travel and Tourism is the right industry. Tourism is the fastest growing industry in the world and it creates large job opportunities in Travel Agencies, Airlines, Airports and Tourism offices. The growth of aviation and tourism is a priority with many governments, since it is a great source of revenue for the countries. We are offering you a shortcut to join this exciting Industry. Akbar Academy offers following courses in Travel & Tourism with 100 percent job guarantee.

1. Diploma in Travel & Tourism – This 4 month course offered by Akbar Academy gives you the skills necessary to work at the counter or Sales & Marketing departments of Travel Agencies and Airlines.

2. IATA/UFTAA Foundation Course – It takes 5 months to pass the IATA course. This is an internationally recognized qualification for Travel consultants with great job opportunities.

Please contact us for more information: Akbar Academy, 14 National Library Road,
Near Bandra Station West, Tel. 3003 4194 / 95, Cell: 9619481511