Urban Adventure: Cycling the Berlin Wall 20 Years After Its Fall

Aside from the hum of spokes and the rattle of a loose fender, the forested hinterlands are quiet. The cycling trail I follow, dubbed the Berliner Mauerweg (Wall Way), often utilizes the “death strip’s” patrol roads alongside the notorious Wall—the bitter, iconic emblem of the Cold War. A mere two decades in time separate this pleasant bike journey from attack dogs nipping at my pedals and a hail of machine gun fire.

Berlin, once ground zero for testy spats between capitalism and communism, is celebrating twenty years since the dreaded “Antifascist Protection Rampart” (as East German officials called it) came crashing down. Berlin has always known how to party despite being in the middle of some rather horrific turns in history. Because of this, Berliners are pretty good at remembering, too. Which partly explains the 100-mile-long Mauerweg.—Text and photographs by Bruce Willey

Pedaling the Wall is one of the best ways—save from actually going back in time and getting shot at—to comprehend what it meant for the divided city. West Berlin was an island amid a red, communist sea. East Berlin was muddled in a draconian pond, Stasi officers and informants watching every move. Losing my way in the bustling district Kreuzberg, I stop for directions. Thankfully Yomo Wagner speaks English and grew up in Berlin. “ It was a lot harder to get lost back then,” he says.

Signs and plaques guide the way—usually. Those who would rather forget have vandalized some. Still, standing guard towers, former border checkpoints, victim memorials, and the next much-needed biergarten break up the miles.

Quiet forest gives way to tidy suburbs. Soon I’m deep in the middle of Berlin on a good bicycle lane. Here, it’s hard to imagine a Wall ever cutting through the heart of the city, through the hearts of its people. Winding down Bernauer Street a section of the Wall remains, looming large but useless. I’m reminded how East German dissident Henning Wegenbreth put it before the Wall’s joyous demise: “cyclists have nothing to lose but their chains.”

How to Cycle the Wall
Bicycles are easily rented from Fat Tire (www.fattirebiketours.com, 6-10 euros a day), or as I did, buy a used bike for cheap from Berlin’s many bicycle stores. Opt for a commuter or mountain bike. Much of the Mauerweg is paved, but there are long sections of bone-rattling cobblestone and dirt road. Though the trail is well-marked, it’s still easy to get lost. Get a radfahrplan (bicycle map) and Michael Cramer’s “Berlin Wall Trail” guidebook. Divide the ride into four or more sections. Excellent public transportation gets you on and off the trail with ease.

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[Travel to UK]

I like biking, I hope someday i can visit the berlin wall.

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A history to remember.

[Italian Sofas]

As a member of the German police force, my father was there for the Berlin wall collapse. After moving to Italy, the other Italians were always wondering how life was in Germany prior to the wall coming down. My father would tell stories for hours to the older Italian gentlemen.

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There are a few different ways to solar charge an electric bicycle but
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and then use an inverter and the normal battery charger for the bike
battery. I've made a short video to show how to do this and put it on
youtube. You can also access it through my Solar Bike website -
solarbike.com.au
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5j9VyuWNzU

[blim.lim]

The 2011 GIANT CROSS CITY 4 is a sporty, fast and comfortable
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Matt

[Rikk Taft]

Sounds like an amazing ride back in history. I really like the idea of buying a used bike and giving it to some child as I'm getting ready to leave. Sounds like a very beautiful place and someday I hope to visit.

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A Berlin sightseeing walking tour along the Belin Wall"The Berlin Wall Border Walk": http://www.berlin-stadtfuehrung.de/The_Berlin_Wall_walk.html

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[sarah fromus]

Maybe its interesting to discover the 150 kilometres long Berlin wall by bike in two days or three. The most important sights on the way you'll find - using the google translator - here: http://www.berlinandmore.com/de/exkursion/mauer/mauer.htm.

[sarah fromus]

Maybe it's interesting to discover the 150 kilometres long Berlin wall by bike in two days or three. The most important sights on the way you'll find - using the google translator - here: http://www.berlinandmore.com/de/exkursion/mauer/mauer.htm.

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It is very small and beautiful city. I was born there and completed my whole study. Then I came to United Kingdom. There is lot of memories attached with that city. I go there every year as my parents are living there.

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s a child I was slave to my impulses; now I am slave to my habits, as are all grown men. I have surrendered my free will to the years of accumulated habits and tdwahe past deeds of my life have already marked out a path which threatens

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I was burn in Russia and my father was working in east Berlin for a year. Me and my family visited him several times and as a child I remember the city was divided with a wall. It is hard to imagine now but back then it was two separate territories, the other side was almost exotic for me. Thank you for that lovely post.

[Thorsten Hilber]

Hi there,
I thought you might find this link helpful.

http://www.outdooractive.com/de/radfahren/berlin/mauerweg/2305612272610698887/karte.html

It´s an exact topographic map of Berlin and it´s Mauerweg.

Keep on riding!
Thorsten