The ADVENTURE TOP 10: Summits in North America

Text by Steve Rollins, edited by Andrea Minarcek. See more Top 10 lists.

If you’ve been following coverage of this year’s Everest season—now in full swing—it’s probably put you in the mood to climb a challenging, brag-worthy peak of your own. Not everyone, we know, has the ability—or the time, or the cash—to bag the big guy, but thankfully there are plenty of worthy ascents in our own backyard.

We enlisted the help of climber Steve Rollins, of Portland Mountain Rescue, to put together a roster of the Top 10 Summits in North America. “I used my mountaineering experience to pick peaks and routes that I myself find challenging,” Rollins says. “So frankly, most of these climbs probably should be done with the help of a professional guide if you’re not very experienced.” With that in mind, then, here are our picks for the Top 10 Everests for the Everyman.

10. Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge

Everest schmeverest. Try climbing an active volcano! Mount St. Helens—which last (catastrophically) erupted in 1980—is an excellent starter climb without significant rock or ice fall danger. Basic ice ax and crampon skills are appropriate for the snow sections, though during the summer you may be able to hike to the summit on bare ground. (“In the summer,” Rollins says, “it is one step up, three-quarters of a step down—very similar to climbing a sand dune.”) Upon reaching the summit rim, you’ll be treated to spectacular views down into crater and out into the blast zone.

Location: Washington
Altitude: 8,365 feet 
Elevation Gain: 4,600 feet
Required Time: 1 day
Difficulty: Walk up
Required Skills: Ice ax/self arrest, crampon technique, avalanche and navigation skills.

9. Mount Washington, South Gully, Huntington Ravine Route 

Home to some of the most extreme weather on the planet (231 miles-per-hour winds, anyone?) Mount Washington is the tallest peak in the Presidential Range. An ascent of the South Gulley requires ice ax, crampon, ice climbing, and rope/ protection skills. Most of the climb is on steep snow, though the gulley offers a short ice bulge crux. This route is definitely a step above the hiking routes to the summit, requiring genuine mountaineering skills.

Location: New Hampshire
Altitude: 6,288 feet
Elevation Gain: 4,300 feet (from trailhead to summit)
Time Required: 1-2 days
Difficulty: WI1+
Required Skills: Ice ax/self arrest, crampon technique, ice steep snow and ice climbing, roped climbing/ placing protection, avalanche and navigation skills.

8. Mt. Shasta, Hotlum-Bolam Ridge 

A fine line on an beautiful 14,000-footer, this is the second highest peak in Northern Cali’s Cascade Range.

Location: California
Altitude: 14,162 feet
Elevation Gain: 7,200 feet
Time Required: 1-2 days
Difficulty: Class 4
Required Skills: Ice ax/self arrest, crampon technique, avalanche and navigation skills. In late season roped climbing/placing protection may be required if the route is icy.

7. Dallas Peak, East Ridge Route 

Reported to be one of the most difficult 13,000-foot peaks in Colorado to climb. Mixed scrambling and easy technical climbing are required to make the summit, as well as two rappels involved with the descent.

Location: Colorado
Altitude: 13,809 feet
Elevation Gain: 4,500 feet
Time Required: 1 day
Difficulty: 5.3 (YDS)
Required Skills: Navigation, technical rock climbing

6. Mt. Rainier, Ingraham Glacier Direct Route 

 “Some Everest veterans have said the Ingraham Direct route on Rainier reminds them of the Khumbu Ice Fall on Everest, though not as long or with the extremely high altitude challenge,” Rollins says. Expect views of stunning seracs and numerous crevass-crossings. The guide services even construct ladders across some crevasses similar (but much smaller) than the ones you’d find on Everest.

Location: Washington
Altitude: 14,411 feet
Elevation Gain: 9,000 feet
Time Required: 2 days
Difficulty: Grade 2
Required Skills: Ice ax/self arrest, crampon technique, glacier travel, crevasse rescue, snow camping, avalanche and navigation skills.

5. Grand Teton, Owen Spalding (Original Route)

A classic American alpine climb. People travel from around the world to climb this mountain.

Location: Wyoming
Altitude: 13,770 feet
Elevation Gain: 7,000 feet
Time Required: 1-2 days
Difficulty: 5.4 (YDS), Grade III
Required Skills: Ice ax/self arrest, crampon technique, moderate technical rock climbing including placing anchors and rappelling, navigation.

4. Forbidden Peak, West Ridge 

The name is an irresistible challenge; who wouldn’t want to claim a Forbidden Peak? This excellent (and popular) climb offers a 1,500 vertical foot ridge of easy to moderate technical rock climbing.

Location: Washington
Altitude: 8,815 feet
Elevation Gain: 5,600 feet
Time Required: 1-2 days
Difficulty: Grade III / 5.4-5.6 (YDS)
Required Skills: ice axe/ self arrest, crampon technique, glacier travel, technical rock climbing, avalanche and navigation skills

3. Athabasca, North Face

One of the better known mountains in Canada, climbing Mount Athabasca’s North face involves several roped pitches of 45-50 ice and a crux rock climb near the top for good meaure. “This is not the easiest route up,” Rollins says, but “it would certainly be an entertaining and rewarding adventure.”

Location: Alberta, Canada
Altitude: 11,453 feet
Elevation Gain: 4,942 feet
Time Required: 1 day
Difficulty: AI3 M4/5, Grade III, 5.5 (YDS)
Required Skills: Navigation and avalanche skills, glacier travel, technical rock and alpine ice climbing skills

2. Mount Robson, Kain Face

This is the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies and perhaps the best known. All routes to the summit are technical, and even the standard routes present objective hazards.

Location: British Columbia, Canada
Altitude: 12,972 feet
Elevation Gain: 10,000+
Time Required: +-4 days
Difficulty: Grade IV, some low 5th class climbing
Required Skills: Ice axe/ self arrest, crampon technique, ice climbing, avalanche and navigation skills, alpine camping.

1. Denali West, Buttress Route

Many Everest vets claim Denali is more difficult than Everest itself, due to the Alaskan peak’s severe weather and minimal support available. It’s certainly a noteworthy achievement: You’ll reach the highest point in the Northern Hemisphere—and get a leg into the “7 Summits” club.

Location: Alaska
Altitude: 20,320 feet 
Elevation Gain: 13,120 feet
Time Required: 15+ days (according to normal ascent schedules and depending on weather)
Difficulty: Grade II
Required Skills: Ice ax/self arrest, crampon technique, glacier travel/rescue, avalanche and navigation skills, winter mountaineer/camping, expedition experience, self-sufficiency!

Comments

[PnS]

Cool. So nice. I'll be visiting these places and shooting there someday.

[Rock Climbing NYC]

It was useful post, i really liked to read it...
the information provided for each route is very usefull.

Dan

[Jemmayel]

I already try a lot of mounting climbing from Malaysia and Philippines, but next summer once i can go to US, i would like to try the Grand Teton, Owen Spalding (Original Route).

[Jezreel Ricafort]

The highest mountain that i climbeb was the mount kota kinabalu located in Malaysia. It's not so easy specially if you are not at mountaineer, luckily my friend of mine informed me that need a lot of training before your proceed. It is really very hard and need your fighting spirit and attention.

[Picaboo Coupons]

I was able to climb the Dallas Peak last summer with my friends. We took a bunch of pictures and uploaded them to Picaboo. There is no greater thrill than climbing to the top of a mountain.

[cebu pacific promo]

I am mountaineer here in the Philippines. My friends went clicm the highest peak in Alaska it is so hard. i want to go there

[Thelisterrific]

How about those who are beginner everest hikers lol.

[Private Tutoring]

There are also many adventure spots in Australia most people don't know...lots of locals here in Australia travel different countries to find adventure yet, they don't even bother explore the beauty of their own country.

[How To Check Computer]

Quite the list of adverntrues thanks for the information.

[rent a car Switzerland]

Athabasca, North Face - very beautiful, stunning montain!

[best camping tent]

Great list of climbing mountains. I agree that Mt. Whitney should be added.

[MtShastaCountry]

Glad to see our Mount Shasta deservedly on your list. And, for sheer awesome beauty, it stands alone... literally.
We are proud of the great support climbers get in the little town bearing it's name. Check out services at our web site, http://www.visitsiskiyou.org/mountain.htm#climb. Scroll past our sponsors for the resources list.

[Wayne Short]

I think you have to add Whitney to the list. What do others think?