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National Geographic ADVENTURE

Sustainable Travel

July 04, 2008

Beyond Green Travel with Costas Christ
Paving Paradise For a Better Future, Donald Trump Style?

Trout

Text by Global Travel Editor Costas Christ

Photograph by Jim and Sheila Glavine

During hard economic times, how do you convince rural communities living next to unspoiled natural areas to see a brighter future? If you are Donald Trump, who wants to build the world's "best" gold course on wild sand dunes along the coast of north Aberdeen, Scotland, or Plum Creek Timber Corporation in USA, who are seeking rezoning approval to carve up more than 400,000 acres of wilderness for resort development and vacation houses around Moosehead Lake in Maine, you prey on local economic fears in a down economy. Although unrelated, both mega-tourism development projects have more than golf courses in common. They need special permits to proceed and they have argued that denying them that approval translates into economic stagnation.

Trump was recently in Scotland, where he decided to personally face off against those nagging gadfly's of progress - environmental groups. Conservation organizations, including Scottish Natural Heritage and the Scottish Wildlife Trust, among others, have raised serious concerns over Trump's plans to build two 18-hole golf courses, a 450 room hotel, conference centre, spa, golf academy, 950 holiday homes, 36 golf villas and accommodations for 400 staff on fragile sand dunes that are an officially designated Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and home to thousands of migrating birds. Trump has said that if he does not get approval for his plan the way he wants it, he will take his multi-million dollar investment someplace else (apparently where his generosity will be appreciated). He referred to Scottish opponents of his development plan as "imbeciles". In fairness, Trump described himself as "an environmentalist" during questioning in the three week public inquiry held last month on the project.

Across the Atlantic in Maine, home to the largest remaining wilderness expanse east of the Mississippi - the North Woods - Plum Creek Timber Corporation is locked in a heated battle with local opponents and conservation organizations, including Maine Audubon Society and the Natural Resources Council of Maine, in an effort to gain rezoning approval to build more than 2000 resort rooms, condos, and vacation homes, in addition to a golf course, marina, restaurants, gift shops, staff housing, service buildings, etc. in the heart of back-country forests, lakes, and rivers. That it also happens to be in an area of abundant wildlife, including moose, bear and endangered species like the Canadian Lynx, doesn't seem to matter. Like Trump, Plum Creek has threatened to take their economic investment elsewhere (where it will be better appreciated, no doubt) if they cannot get the zoning approval they want. The approach represents hardball fear tactics during hard economic times. In both cases, project opponents have sought compromises, but bottom line issues, like not building on the wild dunes of Scotland, and not putting a 400 room resort in the Lily Bay wildlife corridor of Moosehead Lake, where the endangered Canadian Lynx roams, have been met with firm resistance by the corporate real estate giants.

How much actual economic gain to local communities comes from mega-tourism projects like this in largely unspoiled natural areas? Historical experience points to a small pool of investors reaping large profits, with locals getting the crumbs from the economic table while ever-dwindling wilderness is destroyed in the process. At a time when global tourism trends show a growing interest among travelers to experience more nature, along with cultural authenticity and "sense of place", over-blown development projects like these are throwbacks to tourism's poorly planned past, and not the new sustainable tourism vision needed for the future.

June 10, 2008

The Adventure Life with Steve Casimiro
Greetings From Mount Doom

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Text and photos by West Coast Editor Steve Casimiro

The forecast calls for 45 knot winds this afternoon, but here at Hapuku Lodge on the northeast coast of New Zealand’s South Island, it’s calm and cool, a gorgeous Indian summer day resting over this extraordinary location. As the Southern Hemisphere slides from fall into winter, five of us are down here in NZ for the next week, shooting the National Geographic ADVENTURE fall apparel and travel guide, which will run in the October issue. So far conditions have been, in Kiwi slang, “sweet as.”

200806_nga_newzealand_1500 There’s little time to write for the blog right now, but that’s been the story of the last two weeks as my office, living room, front porch, and garage have been invaded by boxes of clothes for this shoot. We have piles and piles of soft, warm sweaters, the best new soft shells, and heaps of the best gear for the coming winter. The number of checked bags range from 14 to 15, depending on how little sleep we’ve gotten and who’s counting.

As with so many of these trips, we’ve arrived here in Kaikoura with plans to shoot less than a day, then move on, but Hapuku is too sublime to leave. The coolest part of Hapuku is the tree house apartments—I’m writing this from the one named Tui—but the grounds are lovely, too. A black rock beach is 300 yards away, snow-covered peaks seem close enough to touch, and there’s a major seal colony just ten kilometers from us.

Today's setting couldn’t be more different from yesterday morning. After a 5 a.m. departure from Chateau Whakapapa in the middle of the North Island, we drove through Tongariro National Park and waited for the sun to rise on the eastern side of the peak that served as Mount Doom in Lord of the Rings. 200806_nga_newzealand_0720Clouds foiled our plans, but frost covered the volcanic plains provided a stark visual image with which to plan.

We’re burning daylight, as the saying goes, so it’s back to work. I’ll do my best to get images posted as we go….

May 28, 2008

Beyond Green Travel with Costas Christ
Oman's Road Less Traveled

Oman_2
American travelers’ current reluctance to travel to the Middle East, egged on by media hype about danger and Islamic fear-mongering, has left Oman almost entirely to the young Europeans now flocking there.

Our loss is their big gain. I just spent seven days kayaking the along the Straights of Hormuz, some 20 miles from the Iran border, and trekking on the Ru’us Al Jebel mountain plateau on Oman’s Musandam Peninsula. My verdict? Pack your bags and go if you can. The intense heat and bone-dry terrain do add up to one of the most inhospitable places I have come across (the best months for travel are October to April), but it is also one of the most stunningly beautiful places I have been—and has the potential to stay this way.

Continue reading this story >>

May 24, 2008

The Adventure Life with Steve Casimiro
Molokai Wins Development Fight, But At High Cost

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Text and photos by West Coast Editor Steve Casimiro

The hand-painted signs are posted on trees, mail boxes, and front porches all across Molokai. “No to La’au Point”, they say, or simply, “No”. Living’s not so easy on the Friendly Isle, where jobs are scarce for the 7,500 residents, as I found out when the magazine sent me there last November to shoot a cover. But the people cling to their way of life, resisting the tourist pox of other islands, and have doggedly fought the proposed La’au development on the pristine southwest corner of the island.

Now the developer has fought back: The Singapore-based landowner closed its beautiful lodge at Molokai Ranch and fired all 120 employees.

Continue reading this story and see more photos>>

May 21, 2008

Beyond Green Travel with Costas Christ
Destination Report Card: Dubai

Text by Global Travel Editor Costas Christ

Some deserts bloom with flowers. Dubai’s desert blooms with outrageous tourism attractions.

With air-conditioned indoor ski slopes, lush golf courses, giant man-made islands shaped like palm trees, and plans to recreate the Seven Wonders of the World, Dubai wants to become the tourism center of the planet. And, as long as 240,000 barrels of oil a day keep pumping in the United Arab Emirates, only the sky is the limit for Dubai—actually, maybe not anymore, given they've nearly finished building the world’s tallest tower.

But can it possibly be sustainable? Just one of Dubai’s golf courses requires a million gallons of desalinated water a day to keep the grass green under a scorching sun.

Continue reading this story>>

April 17, 2008

Beyond Green Travel With Costas Christ:
In Bangkok, A $300,000 Dinner Causes Uproar

Thailand
Text and photograph by Global Travel Editor Costas Christ

The pioneering ecotourism company CC Africa, whose mission is to “care for the land, care for the people, care for the animals,” hosted a summit in New York City this week to discuss if luxury travel can be a responsible form of tourism. Halfway around the world in Thailand, where I was recently, this topic has reached the tipping point.

On April 5, the posh Lebua Hotel in Bangkok invited 50 of the world’s richest travelers to a ten-course, $300,000 dinner on the hotel’s private rooftop. Six of Europe’s top chefs where flown in and paid $8,000 each for preparing the night’s menu. Guests dined on seafood risotto, scallops with truffles, and neck of Iberico pig, all washed down with prized vintage wines from France.

The only catch to this lavish feast was a requirement that the wealthy patrons also travel (by private jet) to a remote village in northern Thailand before sitting down to dinner.

Continue reading this story >>

April 01, 2008

Beyond Green Travel: Cambodia's Crowd-Free Temples Offer a Sustainable Solution

Angkor By Global Travel Editor Costas Christ

To get a glimpse of what Angkor was like before mass tourism arrived, head to Koh Ker, a group of mostly unexcavated temples dating back over 1,000 years, including Prasat Thom, the highest temple pyramid in Cambodia. There is no place to overnight, so you have to day-trip it out from Siem Reap, which is about 90 miles away (you can negotiate a hired vehicle for around $50 to $75).

At Koh Ker, the jungle encrusted ruins stand much as they have for centuries—in the middle of no where. Although not as large as Angkor, they remain free from tourist crowds due to the remote location and a rough road leading to it (a new paved road is now two-thirds complete). There's another reason the crowds stay away: While exploring Koh Ker, you are likely to hear explosions from land mines unexcavated temples that still being unearthed and destroyed in a systematic process. This makes it important to keep to the well-marked trails.

Continue reading this story >>

March 25, 2008

Beyond Green Travel: Who's Getting Rich at Cambodia’s Angkor Ruins?

Angkor2Wandering around the temples of Angkor, arguably the most spectacular archeological site on the planet, I could not help but wonder to what degree the economically impoverished Cambodian people, who survived years of civil war, are benefiting from the tourism boom now underway in their country. It would take a detailed investigation to determine the full answer to this question. However, it was quickly clear to me that someone is getting very rich off tourism here—and it is not the local villagers.

Continue reading this story >>

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