Patagonia's Cerro Torre Gets the Chop: Maestri Unbolted (Photos) - National Geographic ADVENTURE

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January 29, 2012

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Vārti

GREAT lifestyle for those guys :)

Bill

After reading this article I thing Kennedy and Kruk did a right thing.
Bill from Wenzhou, China

Nobody Climber

@BruceHildenbrand read the article again. They clipped into Maestri anchors, not bolts, on the ASCENT, and at places where building their own anchors were entirely possible. Declaring their use of those anchors (and why) is good style.

If you're chopping on the way down you don't clip into the stuff you're chopping.

Nicole

You can find David's Facebook Page here:
http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/David-Roberts/173226516113664

Arnaud Petit

You can see another french feeling here :
http://www.vagabondsdelaverticale.com/news/70/71.html
(the second part of the text is the translation in english)

Riyan

interesting article, very . I like it very much. I come acoss this site by yahoo search engine

http://www.poulmshop.dk/shop/kerastase-142s.html
http://www.housedoctors.com/nepa/home/

Polo Ralph Lauren

I know this is really boring and you are skipping to the next comment, but I just wanted to throw you a big thanks - you cleared up some things for me!

Seth Thomas Pietras

To yield such public controversy is healthy for climbing. For the pursuit is unique in its interplay of intimacy (with the one you're connected to on the rope, your partner) and solitary athleticism (being just you out on the rope with only the rock and ice). Even when there's two of you, you're mostly just out there alone. As such, there is climbing, and there is the sharing of the climb. There is sharing with your friends, and sharing with the world. The farther any route gets away from an honest climb or an honest tale, the less tolerance the community will have for it. It must all be kept true this way because of the mortal risks involved. Kruk and Kennedy have added significantly to the lore and image of the mountain and the particular climb—adding new life to the story and new challenge for another generation—all while restoring some purity to an aging drama. Good for them. And good for us.

Abercrombie

I wanted to thank you for this great read!! I definitely enjoying every little bit of it I have you bookmarked to check out new stuff you post

Keith Bates

This was a totally fascinating story. I have limited experience myself but do have several friends who are serious climbers including Conrad Anker, whom I've met, and my very close friend Suzanne Nance, first American women to conquer the seven summits and both poles. These are the kind of people I would like to invite into my social network MyAdventures.com. Great article.

Travel to England

Very dangerous adventure, but you can see the true spirit of being a mountaineers.

Greg Child

A good account, David, but omitted (though alluded to in a posting above by Stefano Lovison) was that the Americans, Jim Bridwell and Steve Brewer, made the second ascent of the Compressor Route, and the first ascent that actually completed Maestri's creation by climbing past the section that Maestri chopped and then finishing the ice mushrooms (by fair-enough means), in the late 1970s. The Bridwell/Brewer ascent was rightly regarded as a big deal at the time, and how many people subsequently went on to summit Cerro Torre via the compressor route? Hundreds - probably more? Does the erasure of the route now negate the validity of those ascents? And what about the compressor - is it still hanging on the wall? Its been removed before, I recall, and later replaced, its dual status as both heritage landmark and embarrassing-crazy-uncle-in-the-attic putting some quirk into the story of Cerro Torre.
Greg Child

Philadelphia House

Those guys are amazing, Wow that's almost a 90 degree climb

Bruce Hildenbrand

Climbing a mountain means both going up *and* coming down. You can't call it a successful climb unless you accomplish both tasks. I don't understand why Kruk and Kenedy felt it was OK to call their climb "Fair Means' which supposedly empowered them to chop some of Maestri's bolts when they admitted that they used some of his bolts for rappel anchors on the descent. That seems hypocritical to me.

Stefano Lovison

This is absolutely not an article critical ... read here to understand what is a crusade war of Mr. Garibotti & friends.

http://alpinesketches.wordpress.com/2012/01/23/pataclimb-when-toponymy-hides-a-crusade/

The style and motivation of Cesare Maestri that can be defined in many ways indefensible but which are part of that anarchy inherent in going to the mountains and has always been inherent in climbing.

And precisely because of this anarchy, this freedom, we should not criticize - just to stay on Torre Egger and Cerro Torre - on the routes 'construction site' more open seasons, or those made entirely from the fixed ropes on the compressor, as well as on the aluminum box.

But criticizing Maestri destroying his route means step into his own defects. With no action because Taliban historicizes, with ignorance, historical and human context in which the events took place in 1970.

Because does not reflect the opinion of the mountaineering community as it did in 2007 thanks to the local climbers led by Vicente Labate

Because hypocritically takes away the bolt from Compressor route and other uses in their route variation

I think that as these events were held on climbing and do not make it offends the memory of great climbers, not only to teachers but Steve Brewer and Jim Bridwell, Bill Denz, Paul Pierre Farges, the Italians of the first winter, Pedrini, Reinhard Karl and hundreds of other great climbers ...

The boundary that lies between tradition and innovation, modernity and the past experience is weak, and a strict ethical judgments, however, should not excuse ourselves from than ever, mountaineering and human, towards those who went before us.

The elimination of a route from Cerro Torre is like the cancellation of the historical memory of a great mountain and mountaineers.

Thanks
Stefano Lovison
Italy

Luray VA Accommodations

Sun and ice are there and making the job more adventurous. They both really enjoyed this adventure. Thank you NG for the exposing this trip to the world.

Eegrek

Finally, a fair article that shows both sides and doesn't take one. Well done!

Stephanie Scott

An amazing and insightful article. Provokes an interesting discussion.

Chelsey

This is a wonderful article that looks at all sides of the controversy. It's a very refreshing and informative piece.

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